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Frequently asked questions

188 questions. All of them are questions actually asked on site; the answers are written from fabrication and installation practice. We don’t answer price questions with a figure — we explain the factors that determine the price, because a figure given before the dimensions and conditions have been seen changes later.

01Questions

General

  • Six things determine the price: the size of the opening, the opening type (sliding, cantilever sliding, double-leaf swing), the choice of infill (slats, composite, perforated, wrought iron), the surface treatment, whether there is automation and the installation conditions. Two gates of the same width can differ noticeably because their infill and automation are different. That is why we do not give a price without measurements and location details — send us your approximate measurements on WhatsApp, and we will prepare a quote based on them.

  • Yes. Every motor has a manual release key; the key disengages the motor, and the gate can then be pushed by hand. In locations where outages are frequent, battery backup can also be added, in which case the gate keeps running for a limited number of cycles during the outage. On the pedestrian gate, the electric lock is always installed together with a mechanical cylinder; an entrance that opens only electrically will leave you locked out when the power goes.

  • For a first conversation, a rough measurement is enough — measuring the distance between the two pillars with a tape measure and sending it to us lets us outline the quote. But the measurements used for fabrication are always taken on site, by us. The plumb of the walls, level differences in the ground, the slope of the entrance and the actual condition of the pillars can only be seen on site; they almost never match the measurements on paper exactly.

  • In most cases, yes. What decides it is the weight of the gate, the condition of its hinges and track, and whether it still moves freely. A gate that is hard to push by hand will strain under a motor too; in that case the motor does not solve the problem — it simply takes the load on itself, and its lifespan is shortened. That is why we first check the gate’s mechanical condition and, if needed, service the track or hinges before installing the motor.

  • All production takes place in our own workshop in Arnavutköy; delivery and installation cover all of Türkiye. Within Istanbul, site surveys and installation are a standard process — we have work every day of the week along the Arnavutköy, Başakşehir, Hadımköy, Eyüpsultan (Göktürk, Kemerburgaz), Sarıyer (Zekeriyaköy), Çatalca, Büyükçekmece, Silivri, Beylikdüzü and Esenyurt corridor. In other provinces, transport and the installation crew need to be planned, so we set up the process according to the project; tell us where the job is, and we will explain how we proceed for that province.

02Questions

Villa Driveway Gates

  • Six factors decide it: opening size, opening type, infill choice, surface treatment, whether there is automation, and installation conditions. That is why we do not give a price without measurements and location. Measure between the two columns and send it to us on WhatsApp, and we will prepare the quote accordingly.

  • The free space in front of and beside the gate decides. If there is room in front of the gate for the swing arc and you want a classic look, go for a double-leaf gate; if the street is narrow, the entrance is ramped or cars park in front of the gate, a sliding gate is the right choice. If you do not want a threshold on the ground, a cantilever sliding gate comes out ahead.

  • A rough measurement is enough for the first quote. We always take the measurements for fabrication on site ourselves; wall plumb, level differences and column condition can only be seen on site, and they almost never match the measurements on paper.

  • It depends on the complexity of the model, the surface treatment and how busy the workshop is at the time. We give you a firm date after the site survey; we do not think it right to give an estimate before approval, because a timeframe given before measurements are taken often does not hold.

  • In most cases, yes. What decides it is the gate’s weight, the condition of the track and hinges, and whether the gate moves easily by hand. A gate that is hard to push by hand will also be hard for a motor to move; the motor does not solve the problem, it takes on the load and wears out sooner. We check the mechanical condition first.

  • No, but when they are made at the same time, the same profile section, the same infill spacing and the same paint batch can be used. On a pedestrian gate added later, there may be a difference in shade caused by a different batch, even if the same RAL code is used.

  • It can. Solid infill takes far more wind load than open infill of the same size, and that load puts direct strain on the hinges, wheels and motor. In locations exposed to the lodos, the southwesterly wind, either the infill is spaced out or the load-bearing section is enlarged accordingly.

  • Anthracite gray and dark shades show dust and water spots noticeably less than white and light shades. At roadside entrances, this difference becomes noticeable over the course of a year.

View the full Villa Driveway Gates page

03Questions

Villa Pedestrian Gates

  • It is not required, but when they are made at the same time, the same profile section, the same infill spacing and the same paint batch can be used. On a gate added later, there may be a difference in shade caused by a different batch, even if the same RAL code is used.

  • The width of the sidewalk and the level difference in front of the gate decide. On a narrow sidewalk, a gate that opens outward gets in the way of pedestrians; if the garden side slopes, a gate that opens inward can scrape the ground. We assess both together during the site survey.

  • The mechanical cylinder is retained in every installation; during an outage, you open the gate with a key. We do not think it right to leave an entrance gate relying on electric opening alone.

  • With adjustable hinges, this is corrected on site; there is no need to take the gate down. Rubbing is usually caused by the wall settling or the ground heaving, not by the gate itself.

  • In most cases, yes, but if the frame was not made with a cable channel, the cable either runs along the outside in a conduit or the frame has to be drilled. Both affect the appearance and the weathertightness; that is why we recommend planning it at the fabrication stage.

  • Technically it is possible, but we do not recommend it. Add-ons on the leaf take vibration every time it opens and closes, and they work loose over time. Mounted on the frame or the side wall, they do not have this problem.

  • A door closer (hydraulic arm) does this, and the closing speed can be adjusted. Because it needs reinforcement at the top of the frame, it is best to specify it at the fabrication stage.

View the full Villa Pedestrian Gates page

04Questions

Automatic Villa Gates

  • Yes. Every motor has a manual release key; the key releases the motor so the gate can be pushed by hand. In locations where outages are frequent, battery backup can also be added; the gate then continues to run a limited number of cycles during the outage.

  • In most cases, yes. The decision rests on three things: the weight of the leaf, the condition of the track and hinges, and whether the gate catches when pushed by hand. A gate that is hard to move by hand will be just as hard for a motor; we carry out mechanical maintenance first and, if needed, recommend replacing the track or wheels.

  • For us, they are. Photocells are the only equipment that stops the movement when an obstacle is detected in the closing direction. We do not install a system without photocells at any entrance used by children, pets or vehicles — this is not a line item on the price, it is a safety requirement.

  • Yes, once a Wi-Fi module is added. The gate opens from your phone, every opening is logged, and separate permissions can be given to multiple users. For the module to work, a reliable network connection is needed where the gate is located.

  • A lost remote can be deleted from the receiver individually; there is no need to reset the whole system. With cheap receivers that lack this feature, every remote has to be paired again each time one is lost, which is why we pay attention to this at installation.

  • The time depends on the gate’s weight, the width of the opening and the motor class. Faster is not always better: a heavy gate that closes quickly increases the safety risk. We calibrate the force and speed settings to each gate.

  • Yes, that is the basic use case. The remote’s range is set so that it can open the gate as you approach; if you wish, a fixed in-car remote can also be paired.

View the full Automatic Villa Gates page

05Questions

Wall-Top Railings

  • In most cases, the railing. Raising the wall is costly and a new structural job, and it also makes the garden feel like the bottom of a well. A railing provides the same security height with the lightness of metal, without blocking the view completely.

  • What counts is the combined height of the wall and the railing; the railing’s height on its own tells you nothing. If there are homeowners’ association rules or zoning limits, we review those together during the site survey as well.

  • Angled horizontal slats are used for exactly this: an eye looking in from outside sees the face of the slats, while the view from inside out stays open. The light and airflow reaching the garden are also affected far less than with a solid panel.

  • During the site survey, we look at the top mortar and the construction of the wall. On unreinforced masonry and walls with weak mortar, we recommend strengthening that area first and, if necessary, adding a bond beam. If this step is skipped, the anchor point will crack in the first strong lodos, the southwesterly gale.

  • The same infill type, the same spacing and the same paint batch. When the gate and the railing are made at the same time, all three can be guaranteed; on a railing added later, a batch difference may be visible even with the same RAL code.

  • There are two approaches: the railing follows the slope (posts vertical, infill sloping) or it steps down (each panel horizontal, the panels forming steps). Stepping down looks better with classic infill, while following the slope looks better on modern slatted runs.

  • Yes, but the load conditions are different. On a balcony or terrace, the railing is not just a boundary but a barrier against falls; so the post spacing, infill openings and anchors are specified more strictly than for a garden wall. We clarify the intended use during the site survey.

  • Not when it is done correctly. The anchor holes are filled with chemical anchor resin, and every post base is sealed on site. Damage occurs on jobs where the sealing is skipped: water seeps through the hole into the wall, freezes in winter and cracks it.

  • A solid panel takes many times more wind load than bar infill of the same size. In elevated locations exposed to the lodos, either the infill is spaced out or the post spacing is narrowed and the anchoring reinforced. We do not recommend solid panels without doing this calculation.

View the full Wall-Top Railings page

06Questions

Wrought Iron

  • Wrought iron is iron that has been heated and forged into shape; every piece is formed by hand. Casting means pouring molten metal into a mold, and the same motif repeats exactly on every job. Cast iron is cheaper; wrought iron gives a livelier, more original surface.

  • Usually not. Wrought iron speaks the same language as the architecture on stone-clad, arched and classically detailed facades. On a modern facade with clean lines, forged motifs look out of place; there, a solution with slatted or perforated infill is more appropriate.

  • Yes, if surface preparation is skipped. If the recessed surface of forged iron is not cleaned thoroughly before painting, corrosion starts in those pockets and stays invisible for years. When the sandblasting + primer + paint sequence is followed, and galvanizing is added outdoors, service life is noticeably extended.

  • A fixed grille can block an escape route. On bedroom windows, we recommend that at least one leaf of the grille be openable from the inside. This detail should be planned at the fabrication stage; it is difficult to add later.

  • Yes. You can choose from existing motifs, or a new motif can be derived by repeating a detail from your facade. Once the motif is chosen, its distribution along the run is calculated and a template is made.

  • Yes. Privacy is achieved by bonding sheet metal or laminated glass to the back of the open forged infill. Because the leaf then becomes heavier, the number of hinges and the frame reinforcement are reassessed.

  • Yes. We keep the motif templates after a job is finished, and when an addition is needed, the work continues from the same template. With work made from cast parts, by contrast, once the manufacturer discontinues the model, it is often impossible to find the same motif.

  • Yes. Because the parts are joined by welding, a deformed motif can be removed and replaced with a newly forged one; the whole panel does not need to be replaced. After the repair, that area has to be primed and painted again.

  • It needs a little more care than plain paint, because matching the tone in touch-ups is difficult. With a yearly wash and early touch-ups on any knocked spots, it can be used trouble-free for many years.

View the full Wrought Iron page

07Questions

Automatic Roller Shutters

  • Yes. A manual release chain or pulley is standard on every installation, so you can lower and raise the shutter by hand. We recommend testing this part once a year, because trying it for the first time during an outage often turns out to be too late.

  • It depends on where the shutter will be used. Where insulation matters, as in a street-front store, polyurethane-filled aluminum is the right choice; at garage, warehouse and workshop entrances used by vehicles or forklifts, solid steel slats are. Steel is heavy and needs a more powerful motor.

  • Perforated slats are used for this: with the shutter closed, the interior can be made out, and the window lighting stays visible through the night. For high-value goods, we recommend a mixed version with a solid lower section and a perforated upper section.

  • If the slats and guide rails are in good condition, it is possible in most cases. But a shutter that is hard to turn by hand, has bent slats or has come out of its guide rails needs mechanical repair first; a motor does not solve these problems; it just ends up carrying the extra load.

  • Tubular motor systems are noticeably quieter than chain-driven systems. Most of the noise comes not from the motor but from dirty or dry guide rails; with regular guide rail maintenance, the operating noise stays low.

  • If the lintel height is not enough, the shutter box is mounted on the outside, and the roll sits in a box that is visible on the facade. The other option is to reduce the height of the opening, but this is usually not preferred.

  • We recommend them at entrances with vehicle or pedestrian traffic. Used together with the bottom slat safety edge, they noticeably reduce the risk of trapping during closing.

View the full Automatic Roller Shutters page

08Questions

Canopies and Pergolas

  • A canopy has a covered top to protect from rain and sun; a pergola is intended more for shading and defining a space, and its top may not be fully covered. When the top of a pergola is closed in, the structure technically becomes a canopy, and the structural section grows accordingly.

  • It depends on the use. Polycarbonate lets light through and does not darken the space below; membrane spans wide openings without columns and is light; sandwich panel is the option that blocks summer heat best; and glass makes the area usable in all four seasons.

  • It will if ventilation is not planned. Opening sashes or roof vents should be designed from the start; adding them later is difficult. For fully south-facing facades with no shade, we also recommend a shading solution.

  • It depends on the size of the installation, whether it creates an enclosed space and the rules of your municipality. We cannot give definitive information on this; we recommend confirming with your municipality before the site survey.

  • Not if it is planned correctly. During the site survey, we measure how your car’s doors open and the maneuvering space, and set the column layout accordingly. If necessary, we reduce the number of columns with a cantilevered solution.

  • It depends on how the wall is built. Reinforced concrete and solid brick walls carry the anchor load; aerated concrete does not. We check this during the site survey and, if necessary, recommend separate columns down to the ground.

  • Yes, if the structure was built for it from the start. When an open-slatted pergola is closed in, the wind and snow loads increase noticeably; if the section was not chosen with this in mind, the structure comes under strain. If there is a chance you will close it in later, tell us during the site survey and we will calculate the structure accordingly.

  • It will if it is not calculated. The region’s snow load is decisive in choosing the section; with membrane and thin polycarbonate covers in particular, the structure has to be built accordingly. We do not take on a job without doing this calculation.

View the full Canopies and Pergolas page

09Questions

Building Entrance Doors

  • No, they are different lines of work. A steel door is a product whose body and hardware are largely standardized and which is made in set sizes. A building entrance door, on the other hand, is made to measure for the opening and designed together with the panel beside it, the transom above it and the portal around it. If your entrance is a standard opening and you are looking for a simple solution, you may also want to look at our Steel Doors page.

  • Sagging almost always comes down to two causes: hinges that are inadequate for the weight of the leaf, and a frame that has not been anchored to the wall well enough. We choose the number and type of hinges according to the weight and width of the leaf, and we fabricate a reinforced frame for wide leaves. The hinges are adjustable; a check at the end of the first year is usually enough for trouble-free operation for the rest of the door’s life.

  • Yes, if the right glass is chosen. Exterior doors use laminated or tempered glass: laminated glass is held together by its interlayer when broken and does not fall apart, while tempered glass breaks into small pieces without sharp edges. Plain annealed glass is never used. The size of the glazed area also comes into the hinge calculation, because it increases the weight of the leaf.

  • Yes, and this needs to be planned from the start. Cable passages are built in while the leaf and frame are being fabricated; cables run afterward are either visible from outside or have to pass through the moving part of the leaf, where it eventually breaks. Tell us during the site survey which devices you will use, and we will leave the routes accordingly.

  • It can, and it is common at apartment building and residential complex entrances. Our condition is this: an electric lock is always installed together with a mechanical cylinder. An entrance door that opens only electrically will leave you locked out during a power outage. The electrical preparation and the button/intercom connection are planned at the fabrication stage.

  • Yes, this is work we do often. The old door and frame are removed, the opening is measured and the new door is made to that size. Because the wall may be damaged during removal, we assess any repair needs during the site survey. We do not recommend leaving the old frame in place and installing over it — that is where dimensions and insulation are compromised.

  • Yes. Electrostatic powder coating is applied in colors from the RAL chart, and there are also options with wood-look cladding. To match the facade, we usually suggest the existing window frame color or one shade darker. Color does not affect service life; what determines service life is that sandblasting and primer have not been skipped.

  • The timeline is set by the drawing and approval stage after measurement, fabrication in the workshop and the surface treatment; installation is short by comparison. If surrounding details such as a portal and overhang are within the scope, it takes longer. We give the exact timeframe together with the quote, once the scope is clear.

View the full Building Entrance Doors page

10Questions

Steel Doors

  • It depends on what you expect. If you are looking for a simple, durable, and economical solution at the entrance and the opening is a standard rectangle, a steel door is the right choice. If you want a fixed side panel next to it, a transom above it, a clad portal around it, or a composition that is integrated with the facade, that work falls under building entrance doors. The two are separate lines of work; we clarify which one applies to you during the site survey.

  • It does. When a leaf that locks at a single point is forced, it gives way not at the lock but at its top and bottom corners — the leaf flexes and works free of the frame. Multi-point locking prevents that flexing because it ties the leaf to the frame at three points. This detail matters more to security than the thickness of the sheet.

  • Yes. Cylinders are made in standard sizes, so the cylinder alone can be replaced while the lock body stays in place. After a lost key or a move, this is the most practical solution. You can choose the cylinder grade (resistance to breaking and snapping) to suit your needs.

  • When the infill inside the leaf and the perimeter seal work together, the difference is noticeable. Most of the insulation, however, comes from the seal being correctly adjusted: a door with good infill but a seal that leaves gaps does not deliver the expected performance. We adjust the seal after installation; as it wears over the years, it needs to be replaced.

  • A certified fire door is a system tested to limit the passage of flame and smoke for a defined period, and it can only be supplied as part of that system. An “equivalent” fabrication does not take the place of a fire door and will not pass inspection. Where regulations call for a fire door, we plan it as a certified product; we do not present our own fabrication as a fire door.

  • Use and regulations decide that together. Apartment entrances usually open inward, while doors on an escape route need to open in the direction of escape (outward). The space in front of and behind the door also matters: on a narrow landing, an outward-opening door can block the way through. We decide on site during the survey.

  • It can; a wood-look finish is applied over the metal body. It gives the look of real wood without its maintenance burden: it does not crack, needs no varnish, and on an exterior door it is not affected by the sun as much as real wood. Color and texture options are available.

  • For standard sizes and a plain surface the time is short, because the body and hardware are standard. Once measurements are taken, fabrication, surface treatment, and installation follow in that order. Glazed or custom-color options take a little longer. We give the exact timeframe together with the quote after measuring.

View the full Steel Doors page

11Questions

Steel Roofs

  • It spans the same distance at a much lower weight; this reduces the load on the foundations and also makes it possible to add a roof on top of an existing building. Because most of the fabrication is done in the workshop, time on site is shorter. And when it is built with bolted connections, it can be dismantled and moved if necessary.

  • It would not be right to answer this with a single figure, because span alone is not enough information: the snow load of the region, the height of the building, and any additional load to be carried on the roof also enter the calculation. Send us the span and the location, and we will tell you which structural type suits that project.

  • If insulation is needed, sandwich panel provides both covering and insulation in a single step, which is why it is preferred for warehouses and chilled spaces. For open structures that need no insulation (parking areas, loading docks, roof overhangs), trapezoidal sheet is both more economical and faster. Insulation can be added under trapezoidal sheet later, but that means two separate work items.

  • In most cases, yes; because it solves the waterproofing problem at its root on villas, it is a job we do often. What decides it is whether the new load sits on the existing column grid. At the survey we ask for the building’s grid plan if there is one; if not, we measure the column layout on site.

  • It occurs with uninsulated single-skin sheet in buildings where the difference between indoor and outdoor temperatures is high; water droplets appear on the underside of the sheet. This is not a leak but condensation, and it is solved with an insulation layer or with sheet that has an anti-condensation felt backing. Which solution is needed depends on how the building is used — we discuss this at the survey.

  • They are if there is a walkway, an entrance door, a parking area, or a neighboring plot below the roof. On smooth-surfaced coverings, accumulated snow slides off in blocks as it thaws; snow guards break it up so that it melts in a controlled way. The steeper the slope, the more important they become.

  • What determines the timeframe is not the installation on site but the preparation and approval stage in the workshop. Once measurements are taken, the project is drawn and approved, cutting and welding are done, and the surface treatment is applied; only installation is left for the site. Because span, scope, and surface treatment determine the exact timeframe, we give it together with the quote.

  • The two are not alternatives to each other and are often used together: galvanizing protects the metal against corrosion, while paint provides both the appearance and an additional barrier. For structures that will stay outdoors and be exposed to moisture, we recommend a galvanized structure; for enclosed spaces, sandblasting, primer, and powder coating are sufficient in most cases.

View the full Steel Roofs page

12Questions

Box-Section Roofs

  • In a trussed system, triangular trusses span the opening, purlins sit on top of them, and the covering is fixed to the purlins — there are three layers. In a box-section system, the structural frame both spans the opening and holds the covering in a single layer. On small and medium spans this gives a lighter and simpler result; as the span grows, the trussed system pulls ahead economically.

  • It would not be right to give a single threshold figure, because besides the span, the snow load, the number of columns, and the weight of the cover also enter the calculation. In practice, for jobs on the scale of a canopy, carport, or terrace, box section is almost always the right choice; at warehouse and hangar scale, the lattice girder pulls ahead. Send us your dimensions, and we will calculate both solutions and tell you which one uses less steel.

  • Leaving one side column-free with a cantilever solution is possible. The price is that the load on the anchors rises quickly with the length of the cantilever; the surface the anchors are set into must be reinforced concrete and of sufficient thickness. We do not promise a cantilever without checking the surface at the survey.

  • Single-skin trapezoidal sheet makes a noticeable noise on surfaces exposed directly to rain. This can be disturbing on covers above a bedroom or living area. Sandwich panel reduces the noise noticeably thanks to the insulation layer in its core; polycarbonate falls between the two. We always discuss this point when choosing the cover.

  • Not if the ends are closed. The inner surface of a box section is sealed off from the outside environment; the problem starts when water gets in through open ends and drilled points. During fabrication, section ends are closed with caps or welding, and wherever drilling is needed, the edges are sealed.

  • Fully closing in a slatted or open top cover later significantly increases the wind and snow loads. If the structure was calculated for this possibility from the start, it is not a problem; if not, the structure is overstressed. If you might close it in at some point, tell us at the survey so we can choose the section accordingly.

  • For a carport canopy, it is determined by the car’s antenna and the open tailgate; for an entrance canopy, by how the door opens. A cover that is too low limits use, while one that is too high starts letting rain in from the side and loses its protective function. At the survey we choose a value between these two limits.

  • Yes, the electrostatic powder coating is applied in colors from the RAL chart. To match the facade, we usually suggest the same shade as the window and door frames, or one shade darker. Color choice does not affect service life; what determines service life is that sandblasting and primer have not been skipped.

View the full Box-Section Roofs page

13Questions

Standing Seam Roofs

  • Trapezoidal sheet is fixed with screws; every screw means a hole in the water-shedding surface, and watertightness depends on the sealing washer. On a standing seam roof, the panels are folded together and locked, the fastening clip stays inside the fold, and the water-shedding surface is not pierced at any point. In addition, a standing seam panel can move with expansion; a screw-fixed panel cannot.

  • This is exactly where standing seam comes into its own. Double-lock standing seam keeps the roof watertight at low slopes where trapezoidal sheet cannot work. Even so, that does not mean it works at every slope; we measure your existing slope and tell you which seam type is suitable.

  • No. The panel is mechanically fixed to the structure with clips placed at intervals; when the seam is closed, that connection is locked in. Wind load enters the calculation, and the clip spacing is reduced accordingly. In locations with high wind exposure, such as the coast and open high-elevation ground, closer clip spacing is planned from the start.

  • Painted galvanized steel is the most common choice for its balance of cost and durability. Aluminum is lighter and more resistant to corrosion; it stands out in locations close to the sea. Zinc and copper are materials chosen as an architectural preference: they develop a patina over time that changes the surface, and their cost classes are markedly higher.

  • It depends. Whether the existing covering needs to be removed, the condition of the structure beneath it, and whether the slope is suitable are checked at the survey. In some cases it is possible to build continuous decking over the existing surface and apply standing seam on top; in others, the existing covering has to be removed. We do not give an answer without seeing it on site.

  • They can be fitted, but without piercing the surface. There are special fittings that clamp onto the seam; solar panel mounting frames are also fixed this way. Putting screws into the roof directly undermines the system’s watertightness logic.

  • If there is continuous decking (timber/OSB) underneath, the sound drops noticeably. On roofs laid directly over purlins with nothing underneath, the natural sound of a single-skin metal covering can be heard. For roofs above living spaces, we recommend continuous decking and an insulation layer.

  • Yes, and because the surface is smooth, they are often necessary. Snow accumulating on a standing seam surface can slide off in blocks as it thaws; if there is an entrance, a walkway, or a parking area below, snow guards are a must. They are clamped onto the seam, and the surface is not pierced.

View the full Standing Seam Roofs page

14Questions

Composite Facade Cladding

  • Composite panel is made by sandwiching a core between two thin aluminum layers; this structure gives the surface effect of thick aluminum sheet in a much lighter and more economical way. Thick aluminum sheet is more rigid, but it is both heavy and costly, and it is more prone to waviness over large surfaces.

  • It depends on the panel’s core. Standard polymer-core panels and mineral-filled panels fall into different fire classes, and the building’s height and occupancy class determine which one is to be used. This is not a matter of preference but a constraint that must be complied with; at the survey we ask about the building’s height and use and make our recommendation accordingly.

  • In most cases, yes; facade renovation is one of the most common uses of composite cladding. What decides it is whether the wall can carry the anchor loads. Reinforced concrete and solid brick walls pose no problem; with aerated concrete and worn walls, the anchor type changes or a separate supporting solution is needed. We check this at the survey.

  • It can be planned as part of the same installation. Insulation boards are placed between the wall and the cladding, with a ventilation cavity left in front of them. An added benefit of this arrangement is that the insulation is protected from rain and sun; compared with conventional external wall insulation, the insulation layer lasts longer. Because the insulation thickness determines the subframe depth, the decision needs to be made at the start.

  • Not in a correctly installed system. Metal expands, and the cassettes are hung with enough tolerance to allow for this movement; the joint gap is left precisely for it. Misaligned joints usually come from a subframe that was not installed plumb or from anchors spaced too far apart, not from the panel.

  • Yes, besides solid colors, PVDF-coated surfaces are also produced in metallic, wood, and stone patterns. Wood-pattern composite gives a similar effect to real wood without its maintenance burden; on sun-exposed facades, the risk of color loss is markedly lower than with real wood.

  • With a concealed-fixing system, no; the cassettes are fixed with hanging brackets, and only the joint lines read on the surface. A screw-fixed system is faster and more economical, but it creates a regular rhythm of screws on the surface. We decide together which one suits you, based on how visible the facade is and on the budget.

  • The timeframe is determined less by the facade area than by the scaffolding setup, the subframe, and the number of details. The cassettes are prepared on a CNC machine in the workshop and arrive on site cut to size; the work on site is hanging and aligning them. We give the exact timeframe together with the quote once the facade dimensions and the detail plan are ready.

View the full Composite Facade Cladding page

15Questions

Mesh Panel Fences

  • No. A mesh panel fence marks the boundary and prevents passage, but it does not block the view. If you want to screen your garden from the road or the neighbors, we need to discuss a louvered fence or a slatted system. We clarify this distinction at the quote stage.

  • Chain-link is installed under tension and loses that tension over time; sagging and slackening are common problems. Because a mesh panel fence is rigid in itself, it needs no tensioning; it is fitted to the posts and fixed. Visually, it also gives a neater line.

  • Yes. On sloping ground, the panels are installed in steps down the slope. They are not cut to follow the slope; step heights and post lengths are calculated for the slope from the start. This keeps the gaps underneath under control, and the run looks neat.

  • A galvanized + PVC-coated panel has two layers of protection, so it has a long service life outdoors and does not need painting. What shortens its life is not the material but leaving damaged spots in the coating unrepaired. We do not give an exact number of years, because service life varies with location, climate, and use.

  • In a standard installation, some ground clearance remains under the panel. If small animals need to be kept out, a concrete curb is built underneath or the panel is installed closer to the ground. Around fields, gardens, and animal shelters, we recommend the installation with a curb.

  • Yes, this is a common installation. Instead of being set in concrete footings, the posts are fixed to the top of the wall with base plates and anchors. Whether the wall can carry this load and how even its top surface is are checked at the survey; on worn or thin walls, the anchoring solution changes.

  • Yes. For pedestrian and vehicle openings along the run, we fabricate gates from the same series, so the gate and the fence share the same color, the same infill, and the same surface treatment. The vehicle gate can be planned as a sliding gate or a double-leaf swing gate; which one is suitable depends on the maneuvering space in front of the opening.

  • On the PVC-coated type, yes; green and anthracite are the most frequently chosen shades, and other colors from the RAL chart are also possible. On the galvanized-only type, the surface stays metallic gray and is not painted — the very reason this type is chosen is its durability without a coating.

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16Questions

Louvered Fences

  • It depends on the slat spacing and arrangement. With a horizontal or vertical arrangement at standard spacing, someone looking straight on cannot clearly make out what is inside, but the surface is not completely blind. If full screening is wanted, the angled (Z) arrangement is used; with this type the view from straight on is completely blocked, while air and light continue to pass through.

  • Not if it is calculated correctly. As the screening ratio increases, the surface catches the wind and this load bears on the posts; the solution is to choose the post section and foundation depth for that load. Using the same posts as for a mesh panel fence is the most common mistake, and it ends with the run being knocked flat in the first strong wind. At the survey we assess the wind conditions at the location.

  • The two do not do the same job. A mesh panel fence marks the boundary and prevents passage but does not block the view; on long runs it is the most economical solution per square meter. A louvered fence gives view control, and the price for that is wind load and a stronger structure. For enclosing plots, mesh panels stand out; around gardens and pools, louvered fences do.

  • Yes, this is a common installation; it provides view control without raising the wall. What decides it is the wall’s thickness and construction, because the wind load is transferred through the anchors to the top surface of the wall. Reinforced concrete and solid brick walls pose no problem; for thin, hollow, or worn walls, we recommend separate posts running down to the ground.

  • Yes. Aluminum slats with a wood-look finish give the look of wood without the maintenance burden: they do not crack, do not need varnishing every year, and do not change color in the sun as much as real wood. Real wood slats can also be made, but we make it clear from the outset that they need regular maintenance on sun-exposed sides.

  • Although adding slats is technically possible, it is not sound if the structure was not calculated for it; as the gaps close, the wind load rises and the posts may not be able to carry it. If you might want more screening in the future, tell us at the survey so we can choose the post section for it from the start.

  • Yes, and we recommend it. When the gate and the fence are made with the same slat section, the same spacing, and the same surface treatment, the entrance reads as part of the whole run. A gate and a fence sourced from different places almost never match exactly in color and texture.

  • It can, but the slat spacing must be chosen so as not to restrict airflow. A fully closed screening panel reduces the efficiency of the outdoor unit and shortens the equipment’s life. In these installations, we use an open-spaced arrangement and leave enough distance between the unit and the panel.

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17Questions

Steel Construction

  • A direct comparison would be misleading; which is cheaper depends on the span, the number of floors, and the timeframe. In wide-span, single-story buildings, steel is both lighter and faster and usually comes out ahead. In multi-story buildings with small spans, reinforced concrete can remain competitive. Time also needs to be factored in: a warehouse that opens earlier means an additional gain in rental or production income.

  • It is not the installation on site that determines the timeframe but the two stages before it: the structural design and its approval, followed by cutting, welding, and surface treatment in the workshop. Installation is short compared with these two. Because span, tonnage, and the scope of surface treatment determine the exact timeframe, we give it together with the quote; we do not make statements like “it’ll be done within a week.”

  • For permanent structures, we prepare the structural design ourselves, and fabrication does not begin without approval. Permits, on the other hand, depend on the size of the building, the zoning status of the plot, and the practice of the municipality; we cannot give definitive information on this and recommend that you confirm it with your municipality. We provide the drawings and calculations needed for the permit process.

  • It would not be right to give a single figure, because besides the span, the snow and seismic loads, the building height, and any load hung from the roof also enter the calculation. Portal frames stand out on medium spans, lattice girders on wide spans. Send us the span, the location, and what will happen inside; we will tell you which system is suitable and give you an approximate column layout.

  • Yes, if the connections were made with bolts; this is a solution often chosen for investments on leased land. With a welded system, dismantling is not practical. If you might move it, tell us at the start — installation takes a little longer, but the building remains movable.

  • Adding one later usually means strengthening the structure, because a crane load is not just a weight but a moving, dynamic load. If a crane is a possibility, mention it at the survey; if its capacity and the position of its rails are taken into account from the start, the extra cost stays small, whereas adding it later makes it considerably larger.

  • Steel does not burn, but it loses its load-bearing capacity at high temperatures. When the building’s use and the regulations require it, fire-resistant paint or cladding is applied to the structure. The building’s function determines which protection class is needed; we discuss this at the design stage.

  • Steel is much lighter than reinforced concrete, and seismic force is directly proportional to mass — a lighter building attracts less force. Steel is also a ductile material, which means it absorbs energy by deforming before it collapses. The condition for this is correct calculation and correct connection details; the system’s advantage is not independent of the quality of the workmanship.

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18Questions

Mezzanines & Setback Floors

  • Giving a single threshold figure would be misleading, because what decides it is the sum of three heights: what will pass underneath, how thick the floor will be and what will happen above. If only people will pass underneath and the upper level is for storage, a lower ceiling may be enough; with forklifts below and standing work above, the required height rises significantly. Send us your ceiling height and what you plan to do on each level, and we will tell you whether it works.

  • Not with a freestanding system; the structure stands on the floor on its own columns and puts no load on the existing building. With a wall-supported solution, however, the wall must be able to carry the load — reinforced concrete and solid brick are suitable; aerated concrete and hollow brick are not. We do not recommend a wall-supported solution without first checking the wall during the site survey.

  • Yes, this is one of the most common reasons people choose a mezzanine. When the connections are bolted, the structure can be dismantled and re-erected somewhere else. If the new premises have a different ceiling height or floor slab, some parts may change, but most of the structure is retained. If there is a chance you will move, tell us at the start.

  • On most jobs, no. The structure is prepared in the workshop and arrives on site ready to install; the noisy, dusty work on site is kept limited. Even so, the area where the columns will stand has to be cleared and made safe during installation. Working on weekends or outside shift hours is possible; we put the plan together with you.

  • Load capacity is a design decision made at the outset, not a property that emerges afterward. Office, light storage and heavy storage are different classes, and the sections are selected accordingly. Tell us what will sit on top, how heavy it will be and whether the load is concentrated or distributed; we will design the capacity around that and mark it on the floor with a visible sign.

  • It depends on the floor type and the beam spacing. Steel grating is light but transmits more vibration; a composite deck + concrete floor is noticeably quieter and stiffer. If there are offices above and production below, we recommend a composite floor. In the opposite case (offices below, forklifts above), vibration is treated as a separate issue.

  • It depends on the building’s use, its floor area and how your municipality applies the rules; in some cases a renovation permit is required. We cannot give definitive information on this, so we recommend confirming with your municipality. We prepare the structural calculations and construction drawings, and we provide the documents required during the process.

  • Because a mezzanine changes escape distances and stair requirements, fire regulations apply directly to this work. Escape routes, the number of stairs and, where necessary, fire protection for the structure are addressed at the design stage. That is why it matters that you describe how the floor will be used accurately from the start.

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19Questions

Steel Barns

  • We have no limit on numbers; what matters is not the number itself but the span and operating layout that number requires. Tell us the number of animals, the species and how you work (free stalls or pens, where milking takes place); the building size follows from those needs. Talking square meters first and then trying to fit everything in leaves you with a building that gets in the way every day.

  • The inside of a barn is not an environment where painted steel holds up easily: there is constant moisture, ammonia and contact with manure. In this environment, paint alone breaks down at connection points and at spots that take knocks, and corrosion starts there. Hot-dip galvanizing does more than coat the metal; it also provides cathodic protection where the steel has been cut or scratched. It adds cost, but it is the item that determines the building’s service life.

  • In a barn built with the right geometry, often not; air enters through the side walls, rises along the roof slope and exits through the ridge opening. For this flow to work, the ridge opening, eave height and slope are calculated together. In very hot regions or with high stocking density, supplementary fans can be added, but fans work alongside natural airflow rather than replacing it.

  • It depends on the climate and the season. In mild regions, most of the side wall is left open; in cold regions and in winter, a curtain system that can be closed is used. A fully enclosed livestock building makes ventilation difficult and keeps moisture inside. Tell us your region, and we will decide together which solution fits.

  • In most cases, yes; adding an adjoining steel section next to an existing building is common work. What is critical is that the two structures can move independently of each other and that water is managed properly at the junction. We prefer not to put any load on the existing structure. During the site survey, we measure the condition of the existing building and the level difference.

  • Livestock buildings are subject to zoning and agricultural building regulations; there are also rules on area per animal and on ventilation. We cannot give definitive information on these matters — we recommend confirming with your municipality and the provincial directorate of agriculture. We provide the structural calculations and construction drawings.

  • The timeline is driven by the design and the preparation in the workshop; installation on site is short by comparison. Since the exact timeline depends on the span, the area and the scope of surface treatment, we give it together with the quote. Galvanizing is a separate stage, so we include it in the schedule as well.

  • The floor concrete and manure channel are a separate work item; we include them in the planning but decide how they will be carried out based on the job as a whole. What matters is that the floor slope and the channel line do not clash with the structural grid — if the two are not drawn together, a column can end up right on top of the channel.

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20Questions

Steel Greenhouses

  • Our core work is the load-bearing frame and its fabrication. The covering (PE film, polycarbonate, glass) and climate control equipment are separate items; if you wish, we plan them together within the scope. What matters is that the covering type is known when the frame is designed — profile detailing, purlin spacing and slope are set up differently for glass and for film.

  • The inside of a greenhouse is a constantly high-humidity environment, and condensation collects directly on the sections. In this environment, painted steel breaks down at connection points, bolt holes and scratches; corrosion starts there and usually progresses in places out of sight. Since hot-dip galvanizing also protects cut and scratched spots, it is our standard choice for greenhouses.

  • It will if it is not calculated, and it is the most common cause of damage to greenhouses. The regional snow load directly determines the profile section and the truss spacing; because the Gothic roof shape helps snow slide off, it comes to the fore in regions with high snow loads. We do not take on a job without doing this calculation.

  • You can, but it is a load that needs to be known from the start. With crops such as tomatoes, cucumbers and peppers, the hanging load is measured in tons per decare and is permanent. In a greenhouse built without accounting for it, the frame sags in its first full season. During the site survey, tell us what you will grow, and we will choose the section accordingly.

  • No. If the hot, humid air that builds up inside in summer is not removed, the temperature reaches a critical level for the plants and the risk of fungal disease rises significantly. Roof and side ventilation are part of the frame, not an accessory added later. Whether it is manual or motorized is decided according to the scale.

  • Multi-span greenhouses are well suited to this: the new span continues from the existing grid and the gutter line is extended. If the possibility of expansion is mentioned at the start, the end trusses are chosen accordingly and the extension is very easy. If not, the end section may need to be reinforced. With tunnel greenhouses, adding a new tunnel usually makes more sense.

  • The timeline is driven by profile preparation and the galvanizing process; installation on site is short by comparison. Since the exact timeline depends on the area, the greenhouse type and the scope of ventilation, we give it together with the quote. Galvanizing is a separate stage, so we include it in the schedule as well.

  • We prepare the structural calculations and construction drawings, and we provide the technical documents required for applications. Agricultural support programs and the permit process, however, vary depending on how the provincial directorate of agriculture and the municipality apply them; we cannot give definitive information on these matters and recommend confirming with the relevant authority.

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21Questions

Custom Ironwork

  • We do, but to be honest, with very small jobs, making separate trips for measuring, fabrication and installation can make the cost larger than the job itself. In such cases, we suggest either combining several jobs or collecting the piece from our workshop. Tell us what you need, and we will tell you whether it can be done and what approach makes sense.

  • They are enough to outline a quote, but not to serve as the basis for fabrication. The four corners of an opening are almost never equal; whether it is plumb and level, and any level differences, can only be checked on site. A piece made to measurements on paper either rubs or leaves a gap. That is why we always take the fabrication measurements ourselves.

  • It depends on where the piece will stand. For indoor work, primer + paint is enough in most cases. Outdoors, in humid spaces or in locations near the sea, we recommend galvanized fabrication; since galvanizing also protects cut and scratched spots, in those settings it becomes the item that determines service life. The two can also be used together.

  • We do. Sagging doors, broken welds, rusted legs and failed hinges are repairs we do frequently. If on-site welding is needed, that is possible too. In some cases, however, a repair costs close to new fabrication; when that happens, we say so from the start — we don’t want to do something that only looks like a repair and comes back a short while later.

  • We do; interior partitions, doors and storefront frames are among our frequent jobs. Squareness and flatness are critical here: in a frame that is out of plumb, the glass either won’t fit or will be under stress, and stressed glass cracks over time. We can supply the glass, or you can source it yourself; we give the glass dimensions after the frame has been fabricated so that the glass fits exactly.

  • You can; electrostatic powder coating is applied in colors from the RAL chart. If the piece is going next to existing joinery, we recommend the same shade; if it will stand on its own, one shade darker than the facade. Color has nothing to do with service life — what matters is that sandblasting and primer have not been skipped.

  • For small and medium jobs, the timeline is set not by fabrication but by surface treatment and the installation schedule. Measuring is followed by drawings and approval, then cutting and welding, then painting or galvanizing, and finally installation. Since the exact timeline depends on the scope of the job, we give it together with the quote.

  • Yes, the anchoring, alignment and reinforcement welds needed during installation are done on site. However, on-site welding is not as controlled as workshop welding; that is why we design around parts that are finished in the workshop as far as possible and only assembled on site. We have a separate service for jobs that require welding on site.

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22Questions

Welding Works

  • We do. For jobs where the piece cannot be moved or the installation can only be completed in place, field welding is the only option anyway. But we say this up front: because wind, moisture, position and access constraints come into play on site, the same job takes longer than in the workshop and requires more careful planning. If the environment is flammable, a hot work permit and fire precautions also become part of the plan.

  • Often not. A joint that breaks in the same place a second time points not to a welding fault but to a load or design problem; repeating the same seam gives the same result. That is why we first look at why it failed and recommend reinforcement where needed. We do not take on a repair that leaves the cause unaddressed.

  • We do; we use separate equipment and separate methods for stainless steel and aluminum. Two things are critical with stainless steel: removing the heat tint in the weld zone and keeping it out of contact with carbon steel tools. If even one of these is skipped, the material can rust from that zone even though it is stainless.

  • You can’t tell by eye; even if the seam looks neat on the surface, it may not have fused at the root. Visual inspection reveals surface defects (porosity, undercut, overlap) but not penetration. For structural and critical joints, non-destructive testing (dye penetrant, ultrasonic) can be requested; we also recommend it on jobs that call for it.

  • Paint and rust are always stripped from the weld zone. A seam laid on a surface with paint left on it develops porosity and its penetration drops; burning paint also gives off toxic fumes. This cleaning is the unseen but unskippable part of the job, and it is included in the time.

  • They can, but on two conditions: the zinc must be removed from the weld zone and the area must be well ventilated — burning zinc gives off fumes that are harmful to health. Since that zone loses its zinc protection after welding, it has to be sealed again with cold galvanizing or a suitable coating; if this step is skipped, corrosion starts at exactly that spot.

  • The seam itself is usually the shortest part of the job; the time is determined by preparation, access and post-weld work. A small repair may take half a day, while a job of the same size can stretch to several days if it is at height and needs scaffolding. Send us photos and the location, and we will give you an approximate time.

  • Some jobs require welder certification and a welding procedure — particularly pressure vessels, structural steel and certain industrial work. If there is such a requirement, tell us at the start of the project; we will tell you clearly which certification is needed and whether we can work within that scope. We do not take on a scope we cannot deliver as though we could.

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23Questions

Fire Escape Stairs

  • That is not something we can determine. The requirement is set by regulations based on the building height, number of floors, occupancy class and number of people on each floor; the definitive answer comes from the fire department or the relevant municipal office. Come to us with the determination you receive from them, and we will plan the dimensions and installation accordingly.

  • No. The width, tread dimensions, landings and railing height come from the regulations and are not reduced on the grounds that space is tight; if they are reduced, the stair gets built but won’t pass inspection and won’t do its real job. If space is tight, the solution is not to cut the dimensions but to change the stair type: a single-flight straight layout or a different division of the flights often works.

  • Yes, that is the most common use of a steel fire escape stair. The stair is prepared in the workshop, anchored to the facade, and the building stays in use throughout. The deciding factor is whether the facade can carry the anchors — anchors go into the reinforced concrete structure, not into infill walls or over the exterior insulation. We check this during the site survey.

  • It can, but it requires additional detailing: the anchor must pass through the insulation layer to reach the reinforced concrete structure, and the thermal bridge at that point must be resolved. A stair anchored over the insulation will work loose over time and damage the insulation as well. We plan this detail from the start.

  • A fire escape stair stands outdoors for years, under rain and snow, and often no one looks at it. With painted steel, corrosion starts at the joints and goes unnoticed; in a structure that has to be sound on the day it is needed, this is unacceptable. Since hot-dip galvanizing also protects cut and scratched spots, it is our standard choice.

  • It does. Steel grating doesn’t collect water or snow, reduces slipping, and is preferred on exterior stairs because it lets smoke pass through. Diamond plate gives a more closed surface and is called for in some uses. Which one is appropriate is determined by the building type together with the regulations.

  • The timeline is driven by design approval, workshop fabrication and the galvanizing process; installation on site is short by comparison. If the work is done while the building is in use, the installation plan also affects the timeline. Since the exact timeline depends on the number of floors, the type and the anchoring conditions, we give it together with the quote.

  • We prepare the construction drawings and the structural calculations. The fire protection design and the approval process, however, are handled by the designer of record and the fire department; we provide the technical documents that process requires. We don’t start fabrication without approval — a stair whose dimensions have to be changed afterward usually has to be rebuilt.

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24Questions

Fire Doors

  • No. A fire door is a door that has been tested together with its frame, leaf, infill, seals, hinges and lock, and has received a fire resistance class. A steel door made of thick sheet metal does not count as a fire door if it has not passed this test; in a fire, it lets smoke and heat through around its edges.

  • That is not something we can determine. The required class depends on the building’s occupancy class, its height and which two compartments the door separates; it is written in the fire protection design and goes through fire department approval. Come to us with the class specified in your design, and we will select the door and hardware accordingly.

  • E means the door maintains its integrity without letting flames and hot gases through; I means the door’s other face does not rise above a specified temperature. The 60 is how long this holds, in minutes. EI 30, EI 60 and EI 90 are different durations of the same measure.

  • A panic bar is required on escape route doors where the people using the door are not familiar with the building and crowds may form. In technical rooms used by staff, an emergency exit handle may be considered sufficient. Which one is required is determined by the occupancy class and the fire protection design.

  • Not with a wedge, a rope or by removing the closer — a door that doesn’t close during a fire is useless. If it needs to stay open during the day, a magnetic hold-open connected to the fire alarm is used: when the alarm goes off, it releases the door, and the closer shuts it.

  • A door’s class is valid for the door as it was tested. Glazing cut into the leaf afterward, a lock with a different body or a removed seal takes the door outside the assembly that was tested. If a glazed door is needed, choose a door that was tested with glazing from the start.

  • No. Red is a choice that comes from habit; the door can be painted gray, anthracite, black or any RAL color you want. What matters is that the required marking is on or next to the door.

  • Ask in writing which fire resistance class the door was tested to, the size range in which it was tested, and whether the hardware — panic bar, closer, coordinator — was tested together with the door. A quote that does not provide this information cannot be compared, whatever its color and price.

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Can’t find the answer you’re looking for?

Send us your question; if we don’t know, we’ll say so, and if needed we’ll look into it during the site survey. We don’t present a job that can’t be done as if it could.